This blog is about my Solo, self-supported , Winter Inner Ladakh Cycling trip of 450km, 6 days with temperature down to -25°C without wind chill and 8000 m of accumulative ascent.

My love for Ladhak bloomed in the summer of 2009, and it has only grown stronger with every visit.  First time; always in style…….. so the trip was on a motorbike – 10 days – from Ludhiana-Manali-Leh-Pangong –Nubra –Leh-Manali-Ludhiana. 10 days flew by, which felt like hours, I just could not get enough. I was so deep in love that I decided to experience it all over again, and this time, in slow motion. It took me two years to go back in 2011, on cycle for another 10 days to cover Manali-Leh-KhardungLa. Since then I am making an yearly pilgrimage to Ladhak.

All these years, I had seen Ladhak in summers, across June to September. I always wondered what it will be like in winters.  Some thought I was brave, some thought I was stupid, but I was just in love.  And what is love if it doesn’t make you go crazy.

In December 2018 Xmas, I visited Ladhak, to completely absorb the beauty of the place, I decided to do this on cycle solo, self-supported. My route was Leh-Shakti-ChangLa- Durbuk- PangongLake , Phobrang-Shyok-Khalsar-Diskit-KhardungLA -Leh total of 457km in 6 days. Those who knew me, knew that I was just being me.

It was an extreme experience of cold, solidarity and Adrenaline.

DAY ZERO : On 20^th Dec. took early morning flight from Delhi to Leh, flying over beautiful snow covered peaks and landscape, from smog to green , Green to White and the brown… looking over Rohtag, Moore Plains and frozen Tso Kar.I landed in Leh at -12°C with fresh air and made myself comfortable in a very friendly guest house. I loved the innovative ideas of keeping the house warm. But then I didn’t want to get too comfortable …..

After breakfast, I had to collect my permit from the DC office , so decided to walk from my guest house to DC office ( totally 5km). Route was through the famous and happening Changspa Road, but this time of the year , not a soul there , no locals, tourists, all shops closed. That was first realization that it was not going to be that easy as I thought …. Second realization was at the permit office. The Permit officer was surprised on my request for inner-line permit during this time of the year. When I told the officer that mode of transport is cycle , He suggested to rethink about this trip with a concern and suggested to do in summer. I understood his concern and thanked him. He said that it was a first; in winter that he is (probably) issuing permit for cycle for that specific route. That was exciting to hear but scary too…

Finally all set for exciting Journey in the oblivious

DAY1 : Leh to Sakti (50km),  was a good start with reasonable distance with 700 m of altitude gain. It was a beautiful sunny day with max temp -3°C to min -12°C. Leh to Karu ~ 35 was a smooth ride along Indus river, which had just started to freeze, offering breathtaking view. From Karu to Sakti was continuous climb with unmatched views of WariLa and Monasteries along the way. The day was only 6 hrs long. (9 am-3 pm) with Lunch at Karu. I had an opportunity to stay with a family in Sakti. They not only offered me home made food but also gave me a place to sleep, a very warm place to sleep. Most of the places I stayed were kept warm without support without of electricity. Though I was looking ahead at one of the tough days of my trip, I slept like a log.

Day 2 :  It was ChangLa Day, world’s second highest motor-able pass at altitude of 5358 meters. Again, Sun God was smiling down upon me, gifting me blue skies without wind for as long as 60km to Durbuk. Wouldn’t have been able to make the 1800m ascent otherwise . Despite of this gift, It was a tough day, min temperature  -16°C at ChangLA  at noon without chill factor, ice jammed cycle’s disk brakes disks, icy & slipper roads. There was nothing I could do to prepare myself for this. I had to work twice as hard as I was not only trying to peddle at steep elevation but also struggling to keep my body warm in the extreme weather.

During my summer trips, I used to be delighted on the sights of downhill. My smiles soon faded away this time when I realized that in winters they are tougher than climbing.  I was on the edge throughout the downhill, ChangLa to Durbuk, due to icy & slippery roads, head winds, no Sun (North face), temperature dropping to -20°C +windchill. It was a long day 7am to 5:30pm. I managed to reach Durbuk before it got dark and high winds.

Crossing ChangLa was one of the biggest challenge of the trip and was risky. Another factor were the Wild Dogs on this route, who can be very dangerous,  luckily, I had no such encounter.

But the day was rewarding and fulfilling in all aspects. The scenes that I captured, the feeling that I experienced, and the fact that there is life that goes on everyday in that area, was something to die for, and no exaggeration. Again , I was welcomed to delicious home cooked food at Durbuk and a warm place to sleep.

Day 3: Pangong Tso Day-the plan was to cycle to Pangong / phobrang and back to Durbuk, 125km with 1252m ascent.  Once again, I managed to keep the Sun God happy, so was blessed with beautiful blue skies without wind, temperature -12°C to start and average around -7°C. The first sight of Pangong Tso…. and I knew I was so right to have come there. Massive blue spread of water, tiny little waves on the surface, not a soul around, not even birds. It was so pure. It’s a sight I have captured for life….

The lake had just started to freeze, in approx. 30 days, it will be frozen and I could play football on it. (may be next winter??) Since I reached Tso in time, I started to move further towards Phobrang. Wishful thinking was to get closer to Marsmik-La if allowed, but with treacherous road condition and cold, I was not allowed to cross the Indian army barrier.

On way back, usual afternoon head-winds were reaching 40-70km , making it very tough to peddle even downhill to Durbuk. I reached back at 7pm, an 11hour day. The sole reason for me surviving the day were the people post at Tangste and wonderful people in village. They offered me life in the form of warm place hot tea, lots of hot tea.

Again a Memorable day…

Day4 : It was supposed to be  relatively an easier but long day. Durbuk (3850m) to Khalsar (3200m) have elevation difference of 600m. but with 1200m ascent and 1800m decent , net 600 downhill. Total distance 90km.

Lucky to have another bright sunny day with very cold morning -14°C. The beautiful landscape along Shyok river kept me going. On the way, I experienced wonderful hospitality from Skyok village with hot tea, snacks and hot water for the journey, apart from many many memories.   Cycling along Shyok river with crystal clear water was very refreshing and close to meditating, only sound was of Shyok river , no wind, no vehicles ….

As Afternoon approaches, wind started , wide areas of Shyok valley gets strong winds up to 30-50km. It did made peddling very tough and exhausting.  It added additional cycling time. Day ended around 6pm at Khalsar.

Once again at Khalsar, I crashed at a very warm place, in all respects, a home stay with a dinner rich in carbs. It was the answer to all my prayers through the day.

DAY5 : A short ride from Khalsar – Diskit-Khalsar  and  to Khardun Village(4000m). It was total 60km which had 30km of relatively easy ride and then steep incline towards Khardun Village (4000m) , in total 1700m ascent and 900m decent. This route had relatively more traffic than other routes. Another wonderful, home stay at Khardun with home cooked food and warm place to sleep.

DAY6 : Khardun-La DAY : That was day to reach back to Leh after crossing Mighty Khardun-La. 70km of cycle ride with 32km to KardungLa and then 38km to Leh with 1600m ascent and 2200m decant.  It was toughest day of the trip. Once again Blue sky and low temp. -15°C to start THE DAY.

Thank you Sun God :).  Weather was wonderful till North Pullu. Around noon , weather started to turn bad, no sun and cold, after all my trip had to be made memorable .

Road to KahrdunLa was icy and windy. North Pullu to KhardungLa, 15km  was very tough, temperature dropping to -20°C to -22°C , no sun but less windy,  fatigue was catching up.  With icy roads, it was very difficult to ride up. Reaching KhardungLa was half the challenge, going downhill to Leh was tougher due to slippery road, wind, no sun and temperature reaching -20°C. Another worry was frostbite due to low temperature with headwinds. I think I barely escaped that, though, I started to experience severe pain in my figure and toes…

It took me long time to get down to South pullu. From South pullu , temp. was around -16°C in the evening without ice on road which was much needed relief, and trust me -16°C felt like 20°C .  It was also getting dark but moon was very helpful, it was the night sun.

I managed to reach Leh safely by 7PM in one piece.

Don’t remember much of the last night I spent in leh, I remember packing my cycle with my eyes little wet. I were thanking ‘it’ to have done this journey with me and not only carried me but also all the things I needed throughout.

A Life time trip to remember…. I would love to relive this….

In Summary, What is different in Winters:

• If there is water, it is frozen like rock.
• If you are flying from Delhi , you feel and see freshness from AQI of 350 at Delhi to 0 at Leh.

Accommodation:

• • You need to make sure that you book your stay (guest house) and talk to the person for facilities.

• • Very basic facilities are available, except one or two expensive hotels.

• Going beyond Leh , make sure that you have confirmed your stay , nearly all guesthouse and hotels are closed.

Leh and around:

• • Life looks normal at Leh and around but very few tourist and locals.

• • 90% shops/hotels  are closed compared to July-August.

• Food options are very limited, but you relish almost everything, if you do what I did everyday

Taxi : Available

Trip Statistic:

Route:  Leh-Sakti-ChangLa- Durbuk- PangongLake , Phobrang-Shyok-Khalsar-Diskit-KhardungLA-Leh

• • Total Distance covered : 457km

• • Total Ascent: 8100m

• • Total Decent: 8100m

• • Highest elevation: 5400m ( Khardung La is debatable  5680m)

• No. Of days: 6

Temperature Experienced: Day -3°C to -22°C ( Cycling), Night -10°C to -21°C(sleeping at warm place @ 10°C)

Mobile Connectivity: Airtel 4G at Leh, Karu, Sakti.  BSNL at Durbuk, Tangtse, Khalsar.

Challenges  Compared to Summer Cycling

• • Body need to overwork to maintain body temperature in addition to peddling

• • Very cold air to breath which is very painful (may lead frostbites). Covering face reduces air flow which in turn reduces oxygen volume , which is already at 70%-50%.

• • Inhaling cold air makes your inner body cold, body need extra effort to maintain body temp.

• • Risk of frostbites at hand and foot when there is no sun, at passes or downhill with wind-chill factor.

• • Roads are icy near passes, which are some time impossible to cycle or walk , need crampons .

• • In case of emergency , help may be delayed due to less/no traffic during winter time .

• Days are very short max. 9-10 hr day light, compared to 14hr in summer. You plan you stays very carefully and delays can be very very risky..

      In return :

• • Different and beautiful Landscape.

• • If you love solitude, it is a lot  there, hardly any tourists and very few locals.

• • No traffic on roads , you can be on your own whole day

• Lots of Adreline

Know locals better and wonderful experience to know them better to learn a lot about there simplicity, kind, helpful and loving nature .

If you are not already in love with this place….. you surely will be 

Special thanks to my daughter, Sara for editing this article to add life to it ….. otherwise it was filled with numbers and facts ……